Lake Braies and the Tre Cime: why we start early
Lake Braies sits at around 1,500 metres beneath the wall of the Croda del Becco and is one of the most visited lakes in the Alps. In the first hours of the morning the water is still and you can photograph the boathouse without a crowd, which is why the day starts at 7:30.
From Bolzano we take the Brenner motorway to Bressanone, then follow the Pusteria valley past Brunico and turn into the Braies valley between Monguelfo and Villabassa: about 100 km, roughly 1 h 30 to 1 h 45 depending on traffic.
In high summer, roughly early July to mid-September, driving into the Braies valley during the day is regulated and requires a reservation or a permit. The rules change from year to year, so we check the ones in force for your date and plan the arrival accordingly. No shortcuts, just good planning.
Suggested itinerary, hour by hour
- Pick-up in BolzanoAn early start to see Braies in silence.
- Lago di BraiesA wooden rowing boat before the crowds, then the lakeside path.
- Lago di MisurinaCoffee with the Tre Cime in the background.
- Road to Rifugio Auronzo, 2,320 mThe toll road to the foot of the Tre Cime. Optional walk to Rifugio Lavaredo (45 min, level).
- Lunch at altitudeAt the hut, with the three peaks above you.
- Lago di DobbiacoA last lakeside stop on the way home.
- Return to BolzanoVia the Pusteria valley.
The Auronzo toll road opens roughly from June to October depending on snow. When closed, we replace it with the Landro valley and Cortina.
At the lake: rowing boats, the shore path and the right light
The path around the lake is just under 4 km and takes about an hour: easy, with a few short ups and downs and some steps. The wooden boats are hired at the boathouse on a first-come, first-served basis and depending on the weather, one more reason to be there early.
The lake lies in the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park, part of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site: swimming is discouraged and you stay on the paths. This is also where the Dolomites High Route No. 1, the Alta Via 1, begins. An hour and a half at the lake, unhurried, is the right time to really see it.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo: the road to Rifugio Auronzo
From the lake we continue past Dobbiaco and through the Landro valley to Misurina. Just above it, near Lago d’Antorno, the toll road begins: about 6 km of bends up to Rifugio Auronzo at around 2,300 metres, right beneath the south faces of the Tre Cime.
The road is generally open from late May or June to late October, depending on snow, and in recent seasons access has only been possible with an online reservation. We check the rules and availability for your day before confirming the plan.
The Tre Cime mark the border between South Tyrol and the Veneto, and in the First World War they were the front line: tunnels and the remains of positions are still visible in the rock. From the hut, you choose how far to walk.
- The wide, almost level track to Rifugio Lavaredo, suitable for everyone.
- About 20 minutes more, uphill, to Forcella Lavaredo (2,454 m), where the famous north faces come into view.
- The full circuit of the Tre Cime: about 10 km, 3–4 hours and roughly 400 m of ascent. Possible if you tell us beforehand: we move lunch and shorten the rest of the day.
Misurina and Dobbiaco: the pauses in the day
Lago di Misurina, at around 1,750 metres, is the coffee stop, with the Tre Cime on one side and the Sorapiss on the other. On the way home Lago di Dobbiaco is quieter and more sheltered, with a lakeside path and forest all around: a lovely way to close the day.
The drive back to Bolzano follows the same Pusteria valley, about 1 h 30 to 2 h on the road. If you want to sleep, sleep: the van is air-conditioned and there are no compulsory stops.
When the Tre Cime road is closed
Before the Auronzo road opens and after it closes, or after an early snowfall, we replace it with the Landro valley, where the Tre Cime appear in the distance, and a stop in Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Out of season the lakes are still beautiful: the Cortina and lakes private tour runs all year. If you have a single day and want the western passes as well, look at the Dolomites in one day, which also stops at Braies.
Practical tips for the day
A few small things turn a good day at altitude into a perfect one.
- Shoes with a good grip: the paths around the Tre Cime are gravel and scree.
- A windproof jacket, even in August: at 2,300 metres it is much cooler than in the valley.
- Sunglasses and sun cream: the sun is strong at altitude even when the air is cool.
- Afternoon thunderstorms are common at altitude in summer: Ferjy keeps an eye on the forecast and brings the walk forward if needed.
- Child seats on request, and room for rucksacks and pushchairs.
- Only need a transfer, not a whole tour? Our private driver service from Bolzano also covers single transfers to the Pusteria valley.
